Panama Canal
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Panama Old and New |
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First Lock |
The system for the canal is quite peculiar all boats and ships have to pay in advance, no credit cards and no definite transit times, so there is a lot of waiting about for all vessels. We knew we had a few days so it was usual boat jobs the first day, however the President had died so it was a day of morning and there was no alcohol being sold, what bad timing for a clipper race to end . We did manage to find a steak house that allowed wine to be drunk out of plastic cups so no one could tell. More boat jobs the next morning then 9 of us went down to the Canal museum which is by the first lock. Fantastic to see the lock so close with huge container ships going through, and giving us an idea of what we were to expect the next day. We visited the old town of Panama which was a mixture of very old decrepid buildings rather like Cuba and recently renovated smart buildings next door. People living doors open onto the street but seemed to be a lot of police or security with guns. We found a really good restaurant and had a set 11 course meal and nice wine. Next morning was a 4.30 start as we had a start time from the marina at 6 to pick up our pilot at 7 out in the mouth of the bay leading to the canal. Everything is very fluid, it is compulsory to have a pilot on every boat, but he can arrive at any time and if his shift finishes and you are half way through the canal system he just leaves and you have to wait until the next day for a new one to arrive. There are 3 locks on the Pacific side and then a huge lake system with passage buoys throughout with rain forest all around the shores leading to the 4 locks on the Atlantic side. We met up with 2 other clipper boats and rafted together to go through the locks. It was fascinating the mule men threw us lines and pulled our lines up the side of the lock then walked us into position so other boasts could come in behind us or we were behind them. Once tied off the water was let in and we rose up, all on web cam , to the next lock level and so on. It was a funny feeling as the first lock gates closed behind us and that was the end of the Pacific and that side of the world. We have spent so much of the race over that side of the world and it really felt like we were on our home run, the transit through to the home side of the world and civilisation as we know it. A quick flit up to New York a mere Atlantic crossing then Ireland which has got to be near home. Yet we all wait for our 2 week summer holiday and we still had 9 weeks to go. The locks on the Atlantic side were special as we had a Japanese war ship in the canal with us. We had lost one of the three clipper boats as the pilot had run out of time so there were just 2 of us and this huge ship behind us . I asked a question about the ship to our pilot and he did not know the answer so I asked him to phone a friend, he got on the radio to the pilot on the bridge of the war ship and a whole conversation unfolded , it appeared they were off to New York for the festival and we were invited on board to swap photographs when we got there.
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Our Travelling Companions |
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Goodbye Pacific |
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The Canal |
The marina at the far end was very small and had one bar / restaurant , can you imagine 10 clipper boats 15 to 20 on each, they could not cope. The second night they ran out of beer and had to close early, this small peaceful marina who usually deal with transit yacht did not know what had hit them. Clipper's problem was one of the boats had a broken gear box and parts were expected to arrive any day, of corse they didn't and someone flew out with one in their suitcase but this all took about 4 days and we were on stand by to leave every 6 hours. Luckily after a further delay a few of us off different boats went to the 3rd most dangerous city in the world....Colon (great name too). We went to a very basic hotel but it had a pool and was gated so we were safe and it was so much better than sleeping on the boat!
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Container ship in Canal...inches to spare either side |
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Last Lock, with a Japanese Warship |
Eventually we were given the ok to set sail with the other boat and gear box to follow shortly afterwards . The plan was always to motor for approximately 50 miles to where there was more wind. We set sail at 6.30 pm and motored through out the night and the next day and did the Le Mans start just before night fall at least we were nearer to our destination. Yes I was sick again! not bad but all that waiting on land I had lost my sea legs. Mainly as I was on mother watch and we were crashing into the waves with Y1 flying.
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Me sitting on the Rail.....we tried so hard |
It all sounds very glamorous sailing up the side of Jamaica and up through the Caribbean islands and round the tip of Cuba but it is not, it is nice and hot but very sweaty below decks and you see nothing but sea sea and more sea, we did not really see land! The run soon changed to spinnakers and we learned a lot from Flav peeling them from light to medium and back again. The big decision was which way to go round a particular island , the fleet had gone west and we decided to go into stealth and go east . This proved to be a blinder as you all know as we came out of stealth in 1st place . All the other boats were rooting for us and we had loads of mails, including one from the skipper of Gold Coast, congratulating us. We fought really hard sitting on the rail day and night, moving ballast around the boat everything we could to stay in front . However this Yacht racing is as much about luck as effort (except Gold Coast) we drove into various wind holes or light wind areas and as much as we tried (and we did, we changed sail,s put wind seekers up, trimmed trimmed and trimmed again) we watched as boat after boat who were further west over took us. The rest is history we came 5th and were all so disappointed not to be on the podium, third would have done. Yes I know one of my favourite expressions is if you come second you have lost but I think this race has changed me!! Two days from the finish line while I was watch leader , we just pushed too hard Flav was on deck as he always is and it was just getting dark, we had the mid weight kite up and the skies were darkening behind us. I had taken over from Lynn on the helm and the wind blew a huge gust the boat rounded up and I managed to control it but then off it went again this time the boat went right over, the sheet was released and the spinnaker flew free, the boat came up and they started to sheet in. The wind was far too powerful and the spinnaker ripped into two pieces , also ripping the foot and tape off the side , a real mess!!! Yes I was at the helm and felt dreadful it would have happened to anyone as the crew said )along with calling me Shredder) !! Just a bad day, but no one was hurt which was the main thing. All efforts were made to keep our place right up to the finnish line however you could see the disappointment on Flav's face especially as he had had little or no sleep for days. The finish was about 50 miles outside the entrance to the Hudson there was no checkered tape or yellow ribbon just more sea. A little toast of whisky was had to celebrate and then we took down the sails and motored in towards the magnificent sky line of New Jersey and Manhattan. It was great to come in with the rest of the boats and 5 behind us, our best result yet.
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Coming up for air - mother watch |
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Flav |
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Me and James before the Central Park Run |
Five days in the posh Hyatt with magnificent view of the Statue of Liberty and the New York sky line with many late nights eating and drinking before Mandy and Penny arrived and I moved across to the New York side. Mandy had arranged a loft apartment down town which worked out really well and allowed us to do the compulsory shopping we all have to do in New York. On the Thursday before Mandy arrived on the Saturday there was a 6K run organised for Great Britain Day and the Jubilee weekend, 6K I thought easy, but having only walked 68 feet up the boat for the last year I was totally out of condition. Running in a kilt did not help and Central Park has quite a few hills. I managed it with out stopping but my legs suffered for days afterwards ! One more day on dry land then off again for a quick tip up to Halifax. Our new skipper Piers has changed a few things around such as watch systems and hot bunking. Lets see how we do. Next stop Halifax , home run here we come.
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Girder from World Trade Centre outside Hotel In New Jersey |
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Finishing in New York |
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